Before you do anything, make sure you know exactly what you want. Jot your ideas down on paper. If you plan to redo the entire house over a period of time, put together an overall list of your renovation projects in order of importance. Changing plans in the middle of the project will cost money and cause headaches for you as well as the person doing the job.

Don't be talked into having work done just because the rest of the neighbourhood is doing it or because the price is bargain basement. If the deal sounds too good to be true, it probably is. Also, keep in mind that renovations do not automatically add to the value of your home. If it's a major project, get the advice of a professional before the job is started. An architect or engineer can provide expert guidance on design by recommending the most efficient and inexpensive way to make your renovation dreams come true.

Unless you're a qualified "do-it-yourselfer," hire a capable contractor recommended by friends and neighbours. You may also be able to get the names of reliable home renovators from your local building-supply store. Whatever you do, don't choose the first contractor you come across. Get estimates from at least three businesses with good reputations. Prices should include the cost of materials and labor. Beware of the contractor who quotes a flat rate before inspecting your house. Better Business Bureaus, chambers of commerce, local licensing commissions, or municipal building inspectors keep records of home improvement contractors. Check with any or all of these groups to find out if the firm you pick for the job has a record of reliability.

The door-to-door game
A common sales ploy in the home-repair business is the offer of a "good deal" by a door-to-door seller because "we just happen to be in the neighbourhood with all our material and equipment." The contract usually must be signed right away to get a special price.

Don't fall for that pressure tactic. Ask the salesperson for the names of the neighbours who had work done, and get their opinions. Get quotes from other companies too.

If you decide to sign a contract, find out who will do the actual work. In many cases, the seller may simply sell the signed contract to another company.

There are other door-to-door tricks to watch out for. A salesperson may offer to "inspect" your furnace, chimney or roof, free-of-charge. Afterwards, you are told that immediate and expensive repair work must be done. Of course the individual offers to do the work and has a contract ready for signature. If you suspect repairs are necessary, choose your own company. Don't be tempted to sign just because someone is already at your house.

Signing on the dotted line
Once you've selected a contractor and have a cost estimate, get all the details in writing in the form of a contract. Before you sign, make sure this lists any extras (additional items or services that would not be covered in a standard contract), the type and amount of work to be done, the total cost, the start date, the date of completion, and who is responsible for cleaning up after the job is finished.

Read the fine print to make sure all sub-trades are covered and listed in the contract. That way, you'll avoid a nasty surprise when you are faced with a hefty bill from an electrician or plumber on top of the price you thought covered the entire job.

Check warranties and guarantees carefully. The contractor's reputation and length of time in business is important. A "10-year" guarantee is worthless if the contractor goes out of business next month.

If a large amount of money is involved, have a lawyer go over the contract to spot any hidden clauses before you sign.

You may need a building permit for certain renovations so check with your city or town hall before work begins. The responsibility for obtaining the building permit is yours. If you want the contractor to get the permit, make sure this is spelled out in the contract and don't allow construction to begin until you've seen the permit.

Parting with your money
Keep down-payments to an absolute minimum (about 10 per cent) and never pay the full amount of the contract before the work is completed.

This helps ensure that the contractor will stay to finish the job and protects you from financial loss if the company declares bankruptcy before work is completed.

Don't let the contractor talk you into making a large down-payment "to pay for materials". Respectable firms normally have sufficient credit to buy necessary materials.

The Construction Lien Act allows you to hold back 10 per cent of the general contract price until 45 days after the work is completed. Holding back this 10 per cent will protect you against the claims of unpaid sub-contractors and material suppliers.

Although some contracting firms will spread your payments over a period of time, it may be wiser to arrange your own financing. You not only save on interest charges, but you also control payments to the contractor in case of trouble. Remember that costs of borrowing can vary greatly so shop for credit as carefully as you do for other goods and services.

While work is in progress
Keep an eye on work in progress. You may be able to spot problems and have them corrected before the job is completed. Never sign a completion certificate until the work has been finished to your satisfaction.

Studies prove that insulation works. What you save in energy bills depends on the age and type of house, existing insulation and other details. However, savings in insulated homes have been as much as 25 per cent--sometimes more. That's good value for your dollar, and homeowners have found that insulation quickly pays for itself with energy cost-savings. After that, it's money in the bank.

Anytime of the year is insulation time, but you may get a better deal by having your insulation done in the spring or summer when contractors have fewer projects. But, as with any big purchase, investigate before you invest.

The "R-value"
Thickness isn't the only way to determine the effectiveness of insulation. Materials that are good for insulating purposes are poor at conducting heat. To provide a standard of comparison for insulation materials, "R-value" is used to measure resistance to heat transfer. The higher the R-value per inch of insulation, the more effective the material in resisting the escape of heat.

Recommended R-values
For new housing, the Ontario Building Code requires:

• R32 for Ceilings
• R12 for Walls
• R8 and R12 for solid masonry/ concrete/frame basement walls
• R20 for cathedral ceilings
• R26 for floors over unheated garages/crawlspaces/overhangs

When you buy home insulation, it's a good idea to look for the manufacturer's instructions on the insulation packaging to make sure it meets the standards set by the Canadian General Standards Board (CGSB).

Types of Insulation
Insulation has come a long way since the days when newspaper, sawdust or woodshavings were used. The following are common examples of modern insulation.

Loose-fill insulation: These include glass fibre, cellulose fibre, mineral fibre and vermiculite. Some of these, such as glass and mineral fibre, may be blown as well as poured. The R-value per inch varies from 2.1 to 3.6 depending on the type and insulation method.

Batt or blanket insulation: This is normally made from glass or mineral fibre. Batts come in different widths and thicknesses. The R-value per inch varies from 2.9 to 3.3 according to the type. The total R-value of the batt depends on the thickness.

Rigid board insulation: Included in this type of synthetic insulation are extruded polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, phenolic foam board and polyurethane slabs. Though the R-value of these products is rated at 3.9 to 6.0 per inch, great care must be taken to ensure they are properly installed or they could create a severe fire hazard. Rigid board and foamed insulation will burn, and should never be left exposed. They must be covered with an interior wall or ceiling finish acceptable to the Ontario Building Code, such as gypsum board, gypsum lath, fibreboard, plywood, particleboard or wall tile.

Foamed insulation: Polyurethane foam is a relatively new product and must be installed in walls by factory-trained installers. Complex equipment and mixes are used, and improper installation could cause damage to your house. The R-value of polyurethane foam is about 6.0 per inch. This material hardens almost immediately, can catch fire and should be completely covered in the manner described in the Ontario Building Code. Polyurethane foam is now available pre-mixed in pressurized containers. These are either hand-held spray cans for smaller jobs such as sealing of drafts around window frames, or large "floor" canisters for heavier use.

Another type of foam insulation is urea formaldehyde. The Federal Department of Health and Welfare forbids the use of this material because of possible health hazards from formaldehyde fumes.

When choosing the type of insulation you need, think about resistance to water, bacteria and household pests, the cost, ease of application and perhaps rigidity/flexibility.

Remember, there are many brand names of insulation material approved by the Canadian Construction Material Centre (CCMC)--a branch of the National Research Council--so you should be able to find one that suits your needs whether you or your contractor do the job.

Your local Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation office can tell you which material has been approved by the CCMC.

Vapor Barriers and Ventilation
Under winter conditions, the warm moist air inside heated spaces passes into the cold outer areas of the building and condenses in roofs and walls. To control the movement of moisture into other areas, vapor barriers should always be installed on the warm side of the ceiling or wall. Good ventilation in attics and roof spaces helps keep the insulation dry and retains its effectiveness, prevents mould growth, corrosion and wood rot and reduces paint peeling problems.

Even houses that have a properly installed vapor barrier allow some leakage into the walls and attic. In all cases, moisture must be allowed to escape to avoid problems. Outside walls generally allow vapor to escape freely as they are not airtight--but attics require ventilation.

There should be one square foot of unobstructed ventilation opening for each 300 square feet of ceiling. These openings should be located to establish good cross ventilation with one-half the required vents to be in the soffit and the other half on the roof near the ridge or high in the gable ends. Don't forget that every home needs a good supply of fresh air. Just as we need air to breathe, fuel-burning appliances need air to operate safely. A special duct to supply outside air may be needed.

Doing it yourself
If you're going to work in the attic, follow these safety hints:

• Provide lots of light.
• Don't walk on the ceiling--you may fall through. Lay boards on joists to
  form a walkway.
• Wear a hardhat for protection from protruding roof nails and painful
  bumps.
• Wear coveralls, gloves and a breathing mask if you are working with
  glass or mineral fibre.
• Use goggles to prevent eye irritation.
  
• Watch for electrical wiring. Do not disturb.
  
• Keep insulation at least three inches away from electrical equipment
  and chimneys.

Use only CCMC approved material and don't block the ventilation from the eaves. If there is no vapor barrier, consider installing one, taking care that it's placed on the warm side of the wall or ceiling you're insulating. Vapor barriers should never be placed on the cold side of insulation.

Whether or not there is a vapor barrier, major air leakage into the attic from the rooms below should be sealed off before adding insulation. Common air leakage areas are around attic hatches, chimneys and plumbing stacks and up through interior walls.

Have a look
When the contractor tells you the work is completed, have a look for yourself. If you contracted for eight inches of insulation in your attic, take a ruler and measure.

Siding has become a popular way of giving homes a face-lift. As well as reducing maintenance and blocking drafts, installing siding may provide a good opportunity to have additional insulation blown into woodframe or brick-veneer walls--a heat-saving benefit which will partially make up for the cost of the siding.

Installing siding is a big investment, so take some time to evaluate both the product and the company.

The product
Siding is available in aluminum, steel, various types of vinyl, wood and wood products (hardboard). When deciding what kind to use, examine your reasons for having it installed. Don't choose a siding which requires regular washing, painting or staining if easy-to-maintain siding is what you want.

Other criteria that may affect your choice are cost and insulation value.

Contrary to many sales claims, most siding provides only a little insulation. Siding with insulation backing may increase this, but not to the extent that insulating your walls would. Metal or vinyl sidings should be vented to allow the walls to breathe.

Most siding manufacturers publish pamphlets describing their products. Write to the companies or pick up copies at your local hardware or building-supply store.

Information for do-it-yourselfers is also available from these sources and at public libraries.

Siding glossary
Before you begin, get to know these basic siding terms:

Flashing: a waterproof material such as sheet metal generally applied to edges and projections such as chimneys and roof peaks to keep out the rain.

Corner post: usually two vertical boards a few inches wide which wrap around a corner for the horizontal siding sections of two adjoining exterior walls to butt against it. This avoids the difficult problem of having to mitre siding at corners.

J-channel: a metal piece shaped like a "J" fastened to a masonry wall at intervals. Siding is then seated in it in such a way that the "J" is hidden and avoids the problem of nailing into the masonry.

Soffit: underside of a roof overhang.

Fascia: vertical face of roof edge.

Eavestroughing or gutter: a flat vinyl or sheet-metal trough fastened to the fascia which catches water running off a sloped roof.

The product warranty
Siding manufacturers usually guarantee their products against defects. However, this doesn't cover damage caused by mistakes when it's put on your home. The length of the manufacturers' warranty depends on the material. Most metal sidings carry a 20-year guarantee.

Read the small print on the warranty very carefully. On some, the guarantee period is pro-rated, which means the amount that the manufacturer will pay for product replacement decreases every year.

You should also find out what the guarantee on the exterior finish covers. Some are not guaranteed against normal fading, chalking or pollution, which are the most frequent problems. Some warranties require the owner to clean the siding regularly to maintain warranty protection.

A warranty may be transferable to a new owner. It is advisable to check with the company.

Paving a driveway involves more than just spreading asphalt beside your yard. Whether you're having a new driveway laid or the old one repaved, you should know exactly what is involved.

Residential-driveway paving problems are among the most common causes of consumer complaints. If you don't have a clear idea of what is required from base to sealer, an unethical paving contractor may be able to talk you into unnecessary, expensive work or inferior materials.

If your home is new, don't have your driveway paved for at least two years following construction of the house to give the ground time to settle.

In most new subdivisions, the house builder arranges to pave the boulevards--the area between the sidewalk and the road. Ask the builder or the municipal planning department who is responsible for the boulevard before signing a driveway-paving contract.

The basics
You will have to decide whether excavation is needed before paving.

If the stone under the driveway isn't deep enough to provide a firm foundation or if the new or repaved driveway would be higher than the surrounding ground, excavation is usually required.

Crushed limestone is generally preferred for the base because it compacts well. For new driveways, at least 100 millimetres (four inches) is required. For re-grading driveways, enough limestone must be used to ensure proper drainage. A 460-millimetre or 18-inch fall is needed for every 30 metres or 100 feet of driveway. In addition, the driveway should slope away from the house and garage.

Coarser grades of asphalt are more durable. A mix known as HL3A is normally used for home driveways, while a coarser HL3 mix is used for highways and steep driveways because it provides better traction.

About 50 millimetres or two inches of compacted asphalt should be used on your home driveway. If the asphalt is thicker, it will remain soft when compacted.

Don't let the contractor use 75 millimetres or three inches of compacted asphalt, unless it is being applied in two layers.

Sealer, which makes the driveway more oil and grease resistant, should be applied about 60 to 90 days after paving. Don't apply it too early because it doesn't mix with the oil in the fresh asphalt.

To help prevent weeds and grass from growing through the pavement, weed killer should be sprayed before paving. If you want this or any other extra service performed by the paver, make sure it's written into the contract. In addition, you should look for any blank spaces and mark them N/A (not applicable) or Nil.

Protect yourself
Check your property boundary before you begin. If you don't, you may end up paving your neighbour's lot. In some areas, a municipal permit is required.

Insist on having the following included in the contract:

• starting and completion dates;
  
• the responsibility the contractor takes for workmanship;
• depth of crushed limestone to be added;
• number of millimetres or inches of compacted asphalt;
  
• dimensions of the total area to be paved;
• drainage requirements; and
• warranty

Your responsibilities
With proper maintenance, a well-built driveway should last eight to ten years. When the driveway is new, be extra careful not to mark it. On a hot day, asphalt can be easily marked by turning the car wheels while the car is stationary, or by ladders, bicycle kick stands and other pointed or heavy objects. After a period of curing, the risk of marking is reduced.

You may want to line the sides of your driveway with curbstone to improve its appearance and prevent grass from growing through the asphalt.

Despite all your precautions, you may still find yourself the victim of unscrupulous business practices. If this is the case, you have several choices.

Under the Consumer Protection Act, you can cancel a contract for more than $50 if it was signed in your home. Send a registered letter or hand deliver it to the company within ten days of the signing date.

Under the Business Practices Act, you have the right to request rescission (cancellation of the contract) within six months of the contract-signing date if you believe the seller has made a false or misleading representation.

The Ministry of Consumer and Business Services may also provide assistance. If you wish to lodge a complaint against a contractor, contact Consumer Affairs Branch at (416) 326-8800 or 1-800-889-9768.